Best Rooting Gels and Hormones for Cuttings

A rooting hormone doesn't make a bad cutting root — it speeds up and evens out the ones that would have rooted anyway, which in practice is the difference between a 60% and a 90% strike rate. Gels are the default because they seal the cut and stay put. Powders last longer on the shelf. Solutions suit dipping large batches. All three work; below are the ones we stock, ordered gel → powder → solution, with the concentration and method for each.

Gel vs powder vs solution

Form Best for Notes
Gel Most growers, small batches Seals the cut surface; decant, never dip into the bottle
Powder Long shelf life, woody cuttings Tap off the excess or it burns
Solution / dip Large batches, commercial Dilute per label; a quick dip, not a soak

How to use rooting hormone properly

  1. Cut at a 45° angle just below a node with a sterile blade.
  2. Decant a small amount into a separate cup — never dip into the main bottle, you'll contaminate the whole thing.
  3. Dip, insert into pre-moistened medium immediately, firm around the stem.
  4. Dome, 75–80°F, 150–300 PPFD, high humidity.
  5. Don't re-dip. More hormone doesn't mean more roots; excess inhibits rooting.

Powder strength is graded by IBA concentration: #1 (0.1%) for soft herbaceous cuttings, #3 (0.3%) for common garden plants, #8 (0.8%) for semi-hardwood, #16 (1.6%) for difficult hardwood and trees.

What to skip

  • Dipping cuttings directly into the product bottle. One contaminated cutting ruins the bottle.
  • Honey and cinnamon as a rooting hormone substitute. They're mild antimicrobials, not auxins.

FAQ

Does rooting hormone actually work?
Yes — it raises strike rate and shortens rooting time. It won't rescue a poor cutting.

Gel or powder?
Gel for most people: it seals the cut and stays on the stem. Powder if you want a long shelf life or you're cloning woodier material.

How long does rooting gel last?
1–2 years sealed and stored cool. Decanting rather than dipping is what actually preserves it.

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